A Tale of Two Religions at St. Katherine Monastery

I and my former editor-in-chief traveled 230 kms to St. Katherine’s Monastery last year to uncover the secret between two religions thriving within its stone fortress.  Upon arriving at the entrance of the monastery, a large pack of tourists were waiting in line to go through a narrow entrance cut through granite walls. Without much difficulty, we were able to squeeze ourselves inside; whereas had we been alive during the 18^th century, we would have entered through the wooden elevated gate by rope and pulley.

At the foyer is a white rectangular Fatimid Mosque and the church’s bell tower. On the surrounding of the mosque are inscriptions stating that Prince Anoshteken Al-Amer built the Mosque in 1106 for Caliph Al-Amer Be Ahkam Allah as a shelter for pilgrims journeying towards Mecca and as protection for the Monastery. While the door of the Mosque has been locked since its completion, the keys to it are nevertheless held by the Jebeleya (mountain people) Bedouins as their rightful honor, as well as to use in special occasions. It is interesting to know that not only do the Bedouins call for their own prayers, but they also ring the church bell for the Christian masses.

Immediately past the Mosque is the doorway of the Church of Transfiguration. Built by Emperor Justinian in 557 AD, the Byzantine church transmits a sense of strong devotion and faith of the Greek Orthodox monks to the Almighty for securing the church’s esteemed interior and important relics safe and preserved from obstructions of the last 15 centuries. Around its monolithic marble columns are some of the monastery’s chief icons, such as impressively carved thrones of past patriarchs and bishops, the most-prized gold-etched mosaic of The Transfiguration of Christ on the apse above the main altar, and to its right-hand side, the crowned skull and left thumb of St. Katherine of Alexandria, which were found on Mt. St. Katherine during the 9^th century.

No monks were visible inside the church yet, not until noon when all 25 of them gather in daily mass. Hoping to find a monk whom we could talk to, we exited through the southern end of the church and climbed up the wooden staircase to the Icon Collection.

At the reception area, we met Father Nilos, the monk responsible for over 2000 great treasures displayed in the Icon Collection from the 6^th to 9^th century AD. However, since he was not authorized to answer unsolicited questions, he suggested us to wait inside the church for Father Porphyrios, the Guardian of Treasures.

We retreated to the main grounds, stopping shortly in front of the Burning Bush, which is currently undergoing restoration. The site believed to be the backdrop of Moses’ historical conversation with God contains a lush bush, enclosed with a high stoned wall and a fence, also standing as a witness to the pilgrims who have prayed and written their wishes on rolled-up papers stuck through its crevices.

Back inside the Church of Transfiguration, we found Father Porphyrios surveying the precious nave with his Egyptian assistant. He approached us as we neared the nave and was kind enough to answer our questions regarding two diverse religious sites existing inside the monastery. His assistant translated his Greek reply for us, stating that “We live in harmony with the Jebeleya Bedouins who come and work with us, as well as with other Muslims visiting our monastery because of the respect we give to both religions. We also have in the Icon Collection a covenant written by the Prophet Mohamed recognizing the significant practices of both as different forms of worship to the same God.”

The kind monk then led us to an area further away from the Church. Much to our surprise, the area that we were shown into was the vault of skeletons. The Charnel House, which is now restricted to tourists, holds the skeletons of monks and bishops that have been exhumed from the cemetery. It stores each skeleton part in separate piles and the bishops apart from the monks. But its main attraction is the skeleton of a 6^th century monk, Stephanos crunched inside a vertical glass casket with a purple robe and cap and long nails sticking out from his boney fingers. He was believed to have stayed in contemplation on Mt. Sinai in the years prior to his death in 580 AD. His corpse was later found on the holy mountain preserved by Sinai’s dry cool climate.

Having accomplished our goal and meeting a friendly monk who showed us something we had only read about in books, we took off for another 2 ½ hour-scenic trip back to Sharm El Sheikh.

The Monastery is open Monday to Thursday and on Saturday from 10:00 to 11:30 am; on Friday from 10:45 to 11:45 am.  Admission is free.

Captive Crowd Pleasers

With the rise of technological advancement, we find ourselves instantly up close to answers that pique our curiosity. We have the efficient device, as the internet, to show us all aspects of the world and to perceive the interweaving dynamics of life.  In the case of our animal counterparts, we never really knew how they lived. Unless we watched documentaries or if it is part of our profession or if we have the passion to understand their natural way of living, we nonetheless are left with considerate sites that display the animal kingdom, tamed to show their forms and superficial behavior in a controlled and artificially enhanced environment.

Now through reliable websites and documentaries on TV, we discover that these manmade sites, like the zoos and aquariums, are mere displays of the animals’ true nature. We see videos of them from birth, to their eating patterns, to youth, to adults courting each other in the aim of copulation, to battles with other animal species, to their behavior when seeing humans visiting their natural habitats, to their inbred relation with the environment that they have been created in, and other underlying aspects that the zoos and aquariums do not have the capacity to breed.

Take, for instance the reptiles and dolphins shows.  Primarily marketed as income-generating forms of entertainment for tourists, these innocent creatures were taken away from their homes and brought to seclusion where they are subjected to scheduled training and performances as opposed to food hunting and mating,  to chemical tranquilizers as opposed to their formerly tranquil abode, to semi-fresh food as opposed to live ones, to a repeated playlist of music as opposed to a hint of sound roused by other species, to hundreds of audience as opposed to a daring few, and to caged quarters as opposed to boundless domains.

The question is, are these shows that we have been accustomed to healthy for the animals?

The Reptile Charmers

Usual crocodile shows provide tricky exhibitions of crocodiles being dragged and trampled around a shallow pool by crocodile experts.  Without verbalizing any educational information on their interesting subjects, these professional croc-tamers show off only their bravado and strange camaraderie with these reptiles by opening its mouth and boldly inserting their head and hands inside it.  During intervals, the brave charmers switch to their pet cobras to soothe them into submission, wrapping them around their neck and also inserting their head inside its mouth.

Had these wild yet God-given creatures been left free, they would still be soaking in freshwater, slickly crawling on their webbed feet and preying on fish, birds and mammals that permeate their swampy homes.

 

Swim With the Dolphins

Dolphins are spectacular to watch. Seeing them jump on to the surface of the water and swimming playfully in groups is a heavenly sight to behold. It gives you a profound feeling, as if you are worthy to be their lucky audience and even as their friend.

In the Red Sea, dolphins usually permeate along the straight of Tiran, in vibrant marine areas of Ras Mohamed and in the Dolphin House Protectorate where Spinner Dolphins are often spotted leaping high up in the air, blowing bubbles, slapping their tales, snapping their jaws and jumping over boats while making soft squeaks, clicks and whistles. Commonly perceived as part of their playful and curious nature, the dolphins manifest these behaviors as forms of communication with one another, whether it is an alert to possible dangers, to food or to keeping track of others in the group.

Dolphins are considered among the most intelligent animals in the world. According to National Geographic, dolphins produce high frequency clicks called Echolocation, which tells them the shape, size, speed, distance and location of an object around them. They have a sharp vision and they can hear frequencies ten times or more than the limit of humans.

So imagine how they would feel when they are separated from their group and brought in a confined artificial pool where they are forced to follow orders that is beyond their nature.  Most alarming of all is the way Bottlenose Dolphins have been reported to be captured from Taiji, Japan and brought to countries hosting dolphin shows.

In an exposé done by the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society, it was stated that Bottlenose Dolphins undergo extreme brutality from Japanese fishermen and trainers who are hired to capture them for international trade. The capturing process begin with the fishermen forcing the dolphins into the bay with a net. The dolphins panic and are dragged out of the water with ropes around their tails. The trainers then line-up the dolphins on the beach, lying down on hard sand, which results to the exertion of pressure on their internal organs. The dolphins flail around on the beach, accidentally hitting each other with their powerful tails. The trainers particularly look for young female dolphins. Mothers and babies call out in distress as they separated. While the mothers are often chosen for a life of captivity, the babies will eventually be slaughtered with the unqualified dolphins and later packed as canned tuna. The dolphins chosen for a life of captivity are moved on stretchers to cages next to the deafening roar of motor boats.

It needs to be underscored that animals, however dangerous they could be are like humans that deserve freedom to live according to their birthright. Over time these forces of nature that are held in captivity can backfire on their homo sapient hosts and audience, as it has already happened, and in most cases perish to death.

Animals, like us, are created uniquely. The thing that makes us more superior to them is the ability to think intelligently and to act accordingly with respect to the rest of God’s creations. Therefore it makes sense to let animals be the way they are the way we want ourselves to be: free, healthy and alive.

For further readings, visit www.seashepherd.org and www.nationalgeographic.com

 

 

 

 

Sinai Bedouins

In the old days, the Bedouins traveled around the bounder less Sinai Peninsula from Saudi Arabia to South Sinai on their camels as early as the 6^th Century AD.  Some traveled from closer proximities of the Nile River in Egypt and Jordan. They navigated toward places all over Sinai with their belongings and animals and settled along valleys and oases where they can establish a feasible way of life.

There are about 8 tribes in Sinai now.  The Bedouins that we see all over Sharm El Sheikh are from a tribe called Muszeina who live to protect the nature in protected areas like Nabq and Abu Galum; from Nuweiba to Taba, there is the Tarabin tribe; in West Sinai is a small tribe called Aleigat; within the territory of El Tor to the mountainous regions of Wadi Feiran and Sarabit El Khadem are the Qararsha, Awarma and Awlad Said, which collectively compose the Sawalha tribe; from the valleys and high mountains of St. Katherine, the Gebaleya have settled since the 6^th AD as the protectors of its natural resources; and along the Gulf of Aqaba from Jordan is the Masayeed tribe.

Once the Bedouins settle in their respective territories, they begin establishing their sources for survival; planting crops, breeding animals like goat, sheep and camels, and earning income from trade. From these basic sources, they have managed to keep a healthy diet of vegetables, fruits, goats, and chicken cooked in a traditional way with herbs and olive oil.

Bedouins base their whole life with respect on traditional honor codes of hospitality, courage and purity of women.  They have a Tribal council whose authority has been passed down to him from his predecessors in order to execute the Bedouin system of justice true to these codes.

During the Israelis, the Bedouins were treated under occupation. Though they were treated well, they could not have passports, and therefore they didn’t have identity.  Whereas when Egypt recovered Sinai, the Bedouins gained their passports and identity, which opened the doors for traveling elsewhere outside of Sinai.

They are rich in traditions.  They have hospitality, poetry, music, and respect for nature.  A common man can go to the desert and find more hospitality from the Bedouins than in the town and in all the cities.  They are very peaceful. They like to meet new people, go out with them and show them around.

Their poetry is as defined as well as their systemize lifestyle.  It deals on subjects of desert life, battles, philosophy, weather, nature, love and hospitality.  It is quite difficult to understand for the common man, as the structure of such personal composition alters profoundly within the poem.

Nature is very important to them.  Whenever they settle in a territory, they ensure the conservation of its natural resources as their culture is well established on it. They also love the rain because it doesn’t happen very often.  Whenever it rains they are very happy as a lot of vegetation grows, so the animals, especially the goats get to eat fresh food instead of garbage.

Now with the climate change and the progressing development of South Sinai, their age-old heritage is being threatened to oblivion.  Thus to strengthen their hold on this, a festival, called Characters of Egypt is held every October in Marsa Alam, where 8 tribes gather from all over Egypt to unite in a showcase of culture, music, Bedouin law, food tradition, and in traditional Bedouin games.

Al Handal or Bitter Apple: A Forbidden Fruit

You must have seen a small yellow-green round fruit shining everywhere around the desert, teasing you to take a bite into its luscious skin.  The sight of it looks so tempting enough to be forbidden.  Well, better stick to your instincts as this fruit that you’ve seen creeping along the sandy soils in Sinaiis not best eaten.

Al Handal or the Bitter Apple is a wild fruit that grows on sub-desert soils and along the seacoasts.  It has therapeutic properties as well as agonizing results.

In the traditional Bedouin medication, the fruit is used to cure rheumatism.  They make a poultice out of it by boiling the fruit in oiled water, then they cut it in half and press it to their painful joints and wrap it together with a cloth to leave overnight.  It causes a bitter taste in the mouth during this process but the next day it is guaranteed to combat rheumatism.  They use the leaves to alleviate painful menstruation, to treat bronchial asthma and as a diuretic.  The roots they use for healing inflammation of the breasts and amenorrhea, and they use the seedy pulp of the fruit to purge toxins and to cure gonorrhea.

However way the old methods were practiced, doctors of modern medicine have deduced that this wild plant causing agonizing results, such as inflammation of the mucous membrane of the intestines, vomiting, and bloody stools when taken in frequent doses.

They prescribe that in case of poisoning from the Colocynth, as it is scientifically known, the stomach should be emptied and given opium orally or as a suppository.

Either way it works, this tantalizing fruit adds life and substance to the somber desert, invoking amazement to nature wonder as a symbol of paradise in a dry unfertile land.

The Gentle Protectors of St. Katherine

The St. Katherine Protectorate is a UNESCO World Heritage Area found at the foot of the historical Mt. Sinai.  It is a site to behold for its well-preserved flora and fauna, as well as for its old traditional ways of livelihood.  You can go up to the mountains with a Bedouin who will lead you to a spot where to pick wild herbs and fruits, and witness the people relishing the simple pleasures of life by means of farming, herding goats and hand weaving.

I had taken a 2 ½-hour scenic trip to the renowned site to experience a day of tranquility. There was the soothing cool air, remarkable rock formations, breathtaking valleys, impressive craftsmanship, and on top of it all, the genuine hospitality of the Jebaleya tribe (Bedouin tribe from the mountains).

I started off at Wadi El Arbein, where I visited FanSina (Art of Sinai), a cooperative to provide Bedouin women a source of livelihood making and selling high-quality traditional handicrafts for women.

FanSina emits an air of female independence and creativity. It is composed of a stockroom filled with embroidery materials like beads, yarns, needles, threads, baskets and fabrics; a workshop at the end of the compound where Bedouin ladies can work smoothly a distance away from tourists and visiting men; and a boutique where all the completed works are being sold.

Two Bedouin ladies wearing their traditional black thob (beaded veil) received us as we scanned among their glittering handicrafts.  A heap of colorfully beaded purses and pouches, perfectly sewn together with different prints were piled up in one place, several vibrant embroidered bags were neatly piled up in baskets, and sets of shoulder bag with purse made of cotton and ribbons were in another place.  Also sold are silver jewelry, particularly a symbolic triangle necklace embedded with beads and stones to protect its wearer from the evil eye.

         

After shopping a bit, we proceeded with our journey.  As soon as we passed a curve, we stopped where an old Bedouin man was waving at us from the porch of his house.  He was Mahmoud Mansour, a Bedouin herbalist.

We were greeted by three camels hunched on the ground at the entrance of Mr. Mahmoud’s property.  There were olive, lemon and apricot trees planted around his courtyard, whereas a couple of greenhouses stood at the rear end of his big garden where he and his Gebaleya tribesmen work on drying the herbs and fruits they have gathered in summertime from the garden tucked in Wadi Itlah where water wells had been dug out of the mountains to provide water to the plants.

Mr. Mahmoud approached us warmly as we entered and told us that his place is ours while we’re there.  He then led us inside his quaint shop where colorful knitted pouches, made by the women of his tribe held together dried products, like thyme, oregano, wild mint, salvia, herbal tea, apricots, apples, tomatoes, mixed spices, powdered tomatoes, a dry soup mix, and traditional baskets for herb-picking.

       

Our kind host educated us with each one according to his inherited herbal knowledge, passed down from his ancestors.  He said that the thyme (zattar) is great for adding flavor to the food as well as for relieving coughs when boiled with water and sugar; the dried leaves of the wild oregano is used as a spice for salads, pizza and soup, and likewise as an appetizer dip for breads when mixed with olive oil; the herbal tea is the Bedouins staple tea mixed with four wild herbs and is an antidepressant; the powdered tomato is for giving body and flavor to soups and sauces; mixed spices, a combination of herbs that is suggested as a meat marinade; and the dried fruits, which has been prepared as their food for the winter months are handy as a healthy snack with no sugar and preservatives, as well as a soup and as an appetizer sprinkled with olive oil, which he also makes in summertime.

After our herbal orientation, he led us back to the porch and excused himself while he made some tea (In Bedouin hospitality, tea making is about one’s honor, regardless of who the guest is). He returned with the sound of clinking crystal cups placed on a tray and offered each one to us.  He then placed a rug under the warmth of the sun and invited us to sit there so we warm up from the cool temperature.

We talked further about the herbal food that he makes for guests and the herbs that grow in the mountains, while we drank the aromatic herbal tea.  Mr. Mahmoud also explained to me that his brother Hakim (Doctor) Ahmed is the one taking care of the garden and who is in charge of cultivating fruits, vegetables and herbs for eating and for healing.  He advised that Hakim Ahmed might be not be in the garden but further up in the mountain picking herbs, and that if I wanted to try and meet the herbal doctor, then he will let his son guide us to him.

I took his kind offer instantly and graciously thanked him for his hospitality.  We bid goodbyes and left his place with his son Ahmed Mahmoud.

Our driver Eid drove us off the beaten path a few kilometers away from the junction; from there we went on foot toward the bottom of the mountain, hiking along the coast and into Wadi Itlah, a valley where fresh water flows out from the rocks, providing nourishment to the lush vegetation.

Date trees stood grandly along the moist valley, while wild flowering plants spurt from the rocks as we neared the territory of Hakim Ahmed….Alas! The sight of a marble drinking water basin gave us a clear indication that we were in his territory.

Soon after, young Ahmed Mansour pointed to a stonehouse 5 meters up the mountain, stating that it was Hakim Ahmed’s house.  We went up to the Bedouin doctor’s humble abode hoping to find him there.

I watched the boy paying respect to an old man who seemed to be his uncle, Hakim Ahmed.  After exchanging their customary greetings, the older man turned to me with a genuine smile, inviting us to come inside.

Hakim Ahmed Mansour instantly extended his hospitality by offering us some tea.  He led us to a corner where we sat on a sheep-woven rug and waited for the kharoub tea, handpicked from his garden.  In a few minutes his assistant arrived with the tea and a bowl dried dates. Hakim Ahmed joined us with a plastic bag full of almonds in his hands.

He jovially cracked open the almonds as we silently enjoyed our tea and dates, plus the almonds that he was gradually handing over to us.  He looked so delightful as he was cracking the almonds that when I asked if I could take a picture of him, he quickly agreed and even posed with a warm smile.

When our tea was finished, he showed us his garden below where he was also teaching young Bedouins about agriculture, herbs and healing properties found in plants.  The tradition of herbal healing was passed on to him by his parents, thus within his 40 years of practice he has been passing over the tradition to his children and to other Bedouins for the conservation of their heritage and traditions.

                

In his garden, is a maze of flourishing crops like aloe vera, rosemary, wild mint, olives, onions, tomatoes, apples, strawberries, apricots, figs, lemon, kharoub, rocket salad and lettuce; each specie properly encased with rocks and nurtured by the constant flow of the inbred water flowing from the rich mountain.  He also maintains beehives in boxes for cultivating honey, in time for spring and summer.

As for the genteel doctor’s healing abilities, he admitted to only healing from the neck down to the feet, not the head, as he was not taught to heal it.  The first thing he does when a patient comes is to interview the patient, and then he performs physical examination by touch to trace the source of the pain. Afterwards, he prepares the herbs necessary for the patient’s case and prescribes it to the patient, either topical or internal. On the other hand, when stitching an open wound, he applies an ancient African method utilizing black ants.  In this case, the doctor would guide each ant by the hand, as it bites into the wound, and cuts off the ant’s body, leaving the bite heal the wound naturally in time.

Our breathtaking tour ended abruptly as we needed to head back to town before sundown. However, it ended with a promising greeting by the good doctor and an invitation to return for the honey and as his guest in his cozy lodge.

FanSina: http://fansina.net, e-mail: fansina@fansina.net; +2 010 1865 120

Mahmoud Mansour: +2 012 6400 782; for organic food and herbs.

Hakim Ahmed Mansour: +2 012 3623 906; Fridays at St. Katherine’s Monastery

Shisha Pipe Dreams

At every bar frequented by Egyptian men, you’ll see her elegantly displayed at his side like a trophy set to clear his mind and relax his body as he pleases.  He lifts a part of her and sucks through her mouth the fragrant air that the water and fire within her creates.  Satiated, he holds her close to him for another relaxing puff that she so shamelessly emits.  She goes by the name of Shisha – a glass smoking water pipe commonly preferred by Arabs for its tobacco filtering function.

Shisha is truly akin to a woman; in particular to Delilah whose elegance and beauty has taunted Samson to submission and to the loss of his vigor.  Those who favor smoking shisha are actually yielding more than the nicotine intake of a pack of cigarettes, i.e. one shisha session equates to 60 cigarette sticks.

According to the World Health Organization, “Shisha smoke retains all the carcinogens of cigarette smoke while adding more carbon monoxide and a separate set of carcinogens from the use of burning coals to keep the nicotine flowing”.  In addition, Mostafa Kamal, of the Egyptian Smoking Prevention Research Institute, had concluded that a third of Egypt‘s 34,000 annual tobacco-related deaths, were due to smoking shisha.

Other hazards of smoking shisha are:

• Inhalation of high levels of toxic compounds, leading to heart diseases and lung and oral cancers.
• Infection with tuberculosis, herpes, hepatitis and gum diseases from shared mouthpieces.
• New toxins are added from artificially-flavoured tobacco
• Involves health risks to second-hand smokers
• Causes wrinkles and sexual impotence.

Smoking shisha may lead to a wondrous pipe dream for a mere moment.  It may give the impression of sophistication but when health is at risk, it is better to divert vices to something cooler like eating foods rich in zinc.

The Bedouin Man

A man of the desert spawns miles and miles across his vast land. In this existence he survives on pure happiness, isolated from modern complexities of the contemporary world, where life for him is rooted on age-old traditions deepened by family, honor, respect, and an immense passion for nature. This sets the Bedouin man distinct from the common man. The legacy of a Bedouin depends on the environment he is born in. A man born in the valley of mountains or near the sea will always settle in the same setting whichever place he chooses to dwell in. Starting at the age of four, he is introduced to essential means of survival; he is taught to make bread, to cook food for his family, to help his mother with her chores, to serve tea for guests, to look for water sources, to plant crops, to weave garments from camel hair, to ride and care for a camel, to herd goats, to climb mountains, to write poetry, to fish, and to live alone in the desert with keen awareness of signs delivered through his surroundings. When he reaches 18, he can marry the bride chosen by his father and apply his learned tradition to his own family.

Among tribesmen who are distant from civilization, like Bedouins living deep in the desert and in mountain valleys, their inbred traditions remain intact. Some have managed to cross to the mainstream in order to get higher education and live among Westerners, intermittently bouncing back to the peaceful desert life that they’re accustomed to. While there are those born in modernized cities like Sharm El Sheikh, Dahab, Nuweiba and El Tur, whose lives have become intertwined in the thriving system of tourism, working as taxi drivers, divers, and tour guides since the Israeli era. And as characters bred with hospitality, it is a pleasure for them to display their culture through Bedouin dinners, smoking a communal shisha, performing music around a bonfire, desert excursions, and camel rides.

At the heart of their renowned hospitability is a proverb: “Trust in Allah, but tie your camel first”. It means that they extend their heart to their guests with a vigilance of a warrior; thus they could be your best friend if you treat them with the same patience, respect and honor that they give you or your worst enemy if you break your word and betray their trust.

Visit www.desert-scout.com to learn more on Bedouins and their culture.

An Absolute Dining Experience at Rangoli, Sofitel Sharm

Taste the exotic flavor of authentic Indian cuisine at Rangoli.  Situated in the alluring cove of Sofitel Hotel and Resorts, one can dine in content with excellent quality of service and remarkable consistency of food on a romantic atmosphere overlooking the glittering Naama Bay promenade.

You can opt for the terrace dining area, a smoking area with cozy iron furniture softened by traditional Indian cushions, or inside the smoke-free section where paintings of Indian rituals complement the elegant furniture set in such a warm ambience.

Rangoli Indian Restaurant’s efficient staff will let your mind and body at ease, while they serve your preferred alcoholic or non-alcoholic beverages along with subtly spiced appetizer of churned yogurt sauce and two types of onion delicacies with Naan bread slices to ignite your taste buds.

All of the food are enhanced with fragrant, pungent and warm spices and are meticulously prepared fresh by their proficient Indian chef based on his strict food heritage.

The Prawn Pakora, a starter of big shrimps deep-fried with Indian herbs is perfect to awaken your appetite; the same with Mulligatawny, spicy curried lentil soup garnished with rice or chicken; and Raita, a light dish of yogurt, cucumber and pineapple sprinkled with cumin.

As the delectable flavor immerse in your senses, fill yourself with their harmonizing Tandoori Preparations, cooked from the traditional clay oven.  They serve Tandoori Fish, a truly delectable dish of tender fish cubes marinated with yogurt, garlic and mustard seeds; Tandoori Murgh, a famous Indian chicken dish enhanced with yogurt and spices; and Khass Seekh Kebab, slightly spicy minced lamb coated with fresh coriander and mint onion.

For vegetarians, they offer Palak ki Subji, a flavorful bowl of fresh spinach with mushroom slices; Tandoori Subji, grilled vegetables with herbs; and Rangoli Dal, a creamy black lentil dish with butter.

They also have traditional curry dishes of fish, lamb and chicken, as well as hot and spicy specialties like Vindaloo, a Goan style meat curry with potato; Madras, a South Indian meat curry; Bhuna Gosht, tender lamb cooked with cloves, cardamom and thick masala sauce; and not too spicy ones like Murgh Corma, boneless chicken cooked in cashew and almond gravy, and Saagwala Gosht, fenugreek flavored lamb with fresh spinach.

You can pair your main course with palatable choices of bread and rice.  Aside from the famous Indian Naan bread, they have Aloo Paratha with potato and green peas stuffing, Cheese or Garlic Naan, Peshawari Naan with dried fruits and coconut, and Papadum, a crunchy, thin and tasty lentil bread.

While their choices of rice are just as flavorful, you can have the plain one or  with dried fruits and nuts along with your main course, or eat the rice toppings alone, either with lamb, chicken, shrimps, vegetables, or mushroom and onions.

At the end, sweeten your mouth with their distinct desserts like Kashmiri Phirni, light Indian rice pudding with dried fruits and saffron, Gulab-Jamum, milk dumpling soaked in sugar syrup, or a bowl of typical Indian ice cream.  Otherwise, just cap your meal with Massala Tea mixed with cardomom and ginger or Ilaichiwali Chay, Orthodox tea cooked in milk and cardamom.

The prices are reasonable for the quality of food, service and ambience you get.  I have eaten here thrice already and each time was a great value for my money.  In fact the entire setup is so impressive that I don’t mind coming back for more.

Opening hours are from 7:00-11:00 p.m.  For reservations, 069 3600 081 90

A Guinea Pig’s Delight: 3 Days of Ayurvedic Detox

Almost everybody want to quit smoking, to reduce their alcohol intake and to get fit and healthy. But without a definite plan of action, it will never be done. We must regularly fuel our mental, spiritual and physical senses with uplifting food, activities and treatments, if necessary, to sustain equilibrium.

So why not undergo detoxification through Om Sai Yoga and Ayurveda’s detoxification and rejuvenation program or Panchakarma.

Panchakarma, in sanskrit means five actions or treatments, which regulates the three principal components of the body (Doshas): air, fire, and water. This suggests nasal therapy, vomiting, purging and two types of therapeutic enema, by which one uses herbal decoction and the other one with herbal oils.

Om Sai Yoga & Ayurveda applies all treatments within three or seven days, depending on the lifestyle, type and health history of a person.

As a devoted guinea pig, I decided to undergo the Panchakarma treatment.  Yoga and Ayurvedic practitioner Praveen prescribed to me the three-day treatment based on my age and vices, which I was relieved to hear were considerably moderate.

On my first day, Praveen performed a natural toxin-release massage, known as Abhyanga, done with a traditional Ayurvedic oil extracted from an Indian medicinal plant, cooked thoroughly with herbs and spices; It synchronizes certain points of the body, thereby loosening deep-seated toxins in the joints and tissues. It cures muscular problems, overweight, blood circulation, tension, and stress.

In the middle of the massage, I felt discomfort in some areas of my body.  He said, that it is because of my over-exerted muscles and stress, which when compressed takes time to relax. Well, stress is an overused word, which I personally don’t believe exists in me, but then he explained that we all go through stress especially when we apply excessive mental and physical effort into a particular task at hand.  He later discovered that my doshas are imbalanced; I am predominantly of air, a little of water, yet no fire.

Praveen also found that I have a liver problem.  I was not surprised to hear that due to my history of Hepatitis A at the age of 14.  He further noted that my body was lacking of minerals (though I follow a healthy diet) because my excessive air composition is hindering the proper dispersement of minerals throughout my body.

As the Abhyanga treatment ended, Ayurvedic Specialist Manoj Nair, began pouring Ayurvedic medicated oil on my forehead through a punctured brass pot in a meticulous and precise motion.  This treatment, called Shirodhara, aids in removing toxins from the head to the nape, likewise aids in relaxing the body and opening the third eye (the point between your eyebrows) for yogic meditation.

True enough, the oil that was flowing on my forehead and down to my nape further relaxed my head even to the point of numbness.  And before the 45-minute treatment was completed, I woke up unaware that I had fallen asleep.

A short while later, Manoj performed an Ayurvedic facial massage, called Mugha Abhyanga.  He started by massaging the surrounding area of my face with red sandal wax to relieve facial muscles as well as to lift my face up.  He explained that this method is a non-surgical solution for face lifts and wrinkles removal when done within 7 days. He followed through with the treatment by deeply massaging my nose and third eye to relieve the clogness and to sharpen my concentration. He capped it up by rubbing my ears and massaging my ear lobes, to improve my hearing sensation.

Soon after, he wiped the wax off and replaced it with a mudpack mixed with a special Indian powder to tighten my skin.

As the mask was starting to peel on its own, Manoj, began the Nasyam treatment on my nose.  He gradually poured herbal essence drops into my nostrils to remove toxins from my sinuses and crane.  I stayed lying on the oil-resistant beech wood table with my head hanging for a minute so the herbal essence penetrates in.  Manoj advised me to spit out the toxins pushed by the essence. I left the Rock Hotel with some detoxifying herbal medicines in my pocket and clear liquid spits of toxins on my handkerchief.

After a good night’s sleep, I returned for my second session.  I went through the same Abhyanga treatment for 45 minutes, followed by Njavara Kizhi, a therapy, which uses a decoction of boiled Indian rice and milk, packed in a linen pouch.  The hot pouch was then punched into certain points of my body to keep the three Doshas balanced and to relax my bones and joints.

While my body temperature stabilized, they let me inhale the aromatic steam (Vaaspasveda) evaporating from a hot pot mixture of medicated oil, herbs and water to clear my sinus and relax my head.  Later, Manoj did another session of Nasyam to my nose.

On the my final detox day, I underwent Abhyanga, Njavara Kizhi, Mugha Abhyanga and Nasyam for 2 ½ hours.  I noticed my spit gradually transforming into sticky white phlegm.  Praveen commended me for that and advised that the phlegm will disappear.  He said that if my phlegm had been black, then my toxin level would have been high.

I came home that day, rejuvenated, deflated, and toned, with my face tightened and my nose clear.

Even now, five months after my Panchakarma, I still feel light and clean as I felt when I went through it.  I have not stopped my vices, but with regular exercise and a healthy diet, I can feel my body responding positively.

Namaste, Om Sai Yoga & Ayurveda.

Check them out at http://www.omsaischoolofyoga.com or look for Sharm-ayurveda Yoga Rajayoga on facebook for updates.

Om Sai Yoga and Ayurveda

In a town where traffic and pollution cease, and abundance of nature peaks, one easily attains optimum health, beauty and contentment in life.  Well, “life”, in the words of ancient Indian Ayurvedic physician Charaka Samhita, being a “combination of the body, sense organs, mind and soul, the factor responsible for preventing decay and death, which sustains the body over time, and guides the processes of rebirth”, should therefore be self-contained regardless of external factors.

However, in tough moments like the current global crisis, we find ourselves vulnerable to all kinds of decay; to a slow spiralling down to depression, overlooking our precious dreams and disregarding our health.  We succumb to vices for the sake of our quick yet brief upliftment, but then we instantly return to our abusive habits and wait for another upliftment to arise.  But what if we were given the chance for eternal upliftment and permanently overcome frustrating obstacles?

Should you accept this chance with open eyes, a pure heart and a willing soul, then Om Sai Yoga and Ayurveda is here to help you achieve all that.

Coming from a long lineage of Ayurveda practitioners or Ashtavaidyas, Praveen Saathi, Munna Sadanandan, and Manoj Nair founded Om Sai Yoga and Ayurveda to enlighten people in their native country India and other parts of Asia with the philosophy and discipline of Yoga and the ancient holistic healing of Ayurveda that were taught to them by their ancestors.

From left to right, Ashtavaidyas Praveen, Munna and Manoj

Praveen had been the first one among them to move to Sharm El Sheikh.  He came here mid-last year to teach a full-course of Raja Yoga (Royal Yoga) or yoga path of meditation, based on his studies of the Bhramakumari Yoga System, a system that assures a balanced life in a holistic and non-aesthetic approach. Through his grandmother he learned the application of Yoga, Indian martial arts (Kalari) and herbal knowledge to Ayurveda.  At which point, he discovered that the components of nature provides stronger solutions than modern techniques.

Thus, after months of teaching and getting acquainted with the desert tinsel town, he felt the need to open an authentic Ayurvedic center where people from here and Cairo can undergo an all-organic and low cost solution for health and beauty rejuvenation, done only by qualified Ayurvedic practitioners from Kerala (the leading Indian state of Ayurvedic medical system).

Consequently, he went back to his hometown, Kerala to relearn his Ayurvedic knowledge and to bring with him fellow Ashtavaidyas, Munna and Manoj to Sharm.

Munna and Nair, both degree holders of Ayurvedic healing system in Kerala, did not waste time in preparing the organic Ayurvedic medicaments (true to the strict Dhanvantari principle) as soon as they arrived here.

Om Sai Yoga & Ayurveda delivers a holistic lifestyle with soul and body exercises, as well as awareness and respect to nature by maximizing her abundant gifts.  Their name, on the other hand, represents their integrated beliefs and practices. Om, being the root of all mantras for deeper concentration of the mind; Sai, inspired by Indian guru and saint, Sai Baba of Shirdi, who tried to harmonize Hinduism and Islam with his philosophy; Yoga, an ancient discipline that unites the mind, body and soul; and Ayurveda, from the compound word Ayus, meaning life, and Veda, knowledge or science, which together forms the “knowledge of life” or more appropriately, “the science of long life” through the ancient Indian holistic way of healing.

They offer a long line of preventive treatments for health and beauty such as: Abhyanga (full-body therapeutic massage), Shirodhara (medicated oil drops on the head), Shirovasti (medicated oil drops with a cap), Njavara Khizi (herbal linen pouch body treatment), Panchakarma (3 or 7 days detoxification), Marma (vigorous massage with the use of hands and feet), Kativasti (medicated oil retained on the body), Pizhichil (medicated oil bath), Nasyam (sinusitis treatment), Mugha Abhyanga (herbal facial treatment). These Ayurvedic treatments coincide with session prescribed treatments like: Face Lift, Neck Lift, Breast Lift, Wrinkles Treatment, Eye Bag Removal, Mudpack, Skin Toning, Stress Buster (3-5 days), Weight Loss (5-7 days) E.E.N.T. Care (3 days), and Herbal Haircare.

Yogi Praveen advises current and future yogis to learn how to conserve their energy so they could properly channel it into self-attunement.  He also stresses that to understand the full-benefits of yoga, particularly Raja Yoga, yogis should first master The Yoga Sutras of Patanjali. These are the 8 disciplinary limbs, which begin with Yama (social discipline), Niyama (individual discipline), Asana (posture), Pranayama (control of the life energy through breathing), Pratyahara (mind withrawal from the senses), Dharana (concentration), Dhyana (meditation), and Samadhi (enlightenment); By disregarding one limb a yogi cannot fully achieve Yoga’s full benefits.  Hence when it comes to meditation, a yogi has to religiously practice it daily at the same time, either in the early morning or in the dark night, so he/she could adopt proper control of thoughts and be mindful of his/her daily actions.

At the end of the day, it is only up to us whether we choose to realize our true selves and achieve eternal contentment or be caught in the chaos produced by others.

Follow them at http://www.omsaischoolofyoga.com and on facebook via Sharm-ayurveda Yoga Rajayoga.